During Sui and Tang dynasties, politics is stable, economies is advanced, the production and textile technology continues to develop, the foreign exchange is unprecedentedly prosperous, all these factors work together to propel Chinese ancient clothes to a heyday. The various forms, colors and patterns dazzle people’s eyes, composing the most spectacular passage in the Chinese clothes history.The richness and splendor of clothes and the strange and diverse make-ups have made the present generation still marvel at them over one thousand years later!
Dress in Sui and Tang dynasties
Ruqun
Ruqun is a basic kind of female clothes in Han nationality.It’s a traditional clothing, meaning women wear short Ru up and long Qun down(often called Yi up and Chang down). The generation of the day often ties short Ru into Qun, forming the habit of “wear Qun up to high waist to cover breasts”.
Hu clothing
Hu clothing is the general name for ancient Han nationality to call the clothes western people and Hu nationality in northern China wear, different from the Central Plains’ Han clothes which is loose and broad. Hu clothes often includes underwear short Yi, long trousers and leather boots. The clothes is tight and narrow, fitting the body shape and making it easy to ride and shoot, which is popular among the people, especially women. Hu clothing is a product of economic and cultural exchanges between the Han and other ethnic groups.
The accessories in Sui and Tang dynasties
Pi Silk
Pi Silk, also called Painted Silk, often made by soft and light yarn with patterns on it. Its usual length is over two meters. It often be draped over the shoulder, and coiled between the two arms. When walking, it will swing following arms action and flutter.Pi Silk originated from Central Asia and spread to Central Plains as two sides conducted commercial exchanges. Then it connected with Buddhism during its eastern journey, becoming an important component in clothes on figures of Buddha.
Half-arm
Half-arm is a short-sleeved lapel top, without button tabs, only tied with a strap embellished on the lapel in front of the chest. It’s often inside Shan and Qun.
Mu Li and Wei Mao
Mu Li and Wei Mao often use vine mat or felt hat as skeleton, and then it will bind silk, embellish the whole black yarn on the brim, so that it covers the face or the whole body. Mu Li used to be Hu and Qiang nationalities’ clothes. They live in northwestern part with lots of wind and sand, so they use it to prevent wind and sand invasion. But when it comes to inland, this accessory is fit for feudal thoughts from Confucianism “women have to cover faces outsides”, so its use develops as preventing others from seeing women’s faces, making Mu Li gradually becomes Wei Mao.
Culture behind clothes
Sui and Tang Dynasties are prosperous and open, making clothes endowed with vigorous, colorful and eye-catching characters, which attracts people to go through thousands of years and peep that prosperous era through existed clothes. At the same time, this phrase’s clothes also show the characters that other ethnic groups’ culture merge into Han nationality because this phrase actively conducts multiple nations integration and actually realizes the spectacle “the Great Tang, many nations comes here for diplomacy”, providing valuable information for current generation’s study on relations between Han and Hu.
Clothes is an indispensable part in life. Every class needs clothes, so it can largely reflect people’s life in different classes. Meanwhile, it can be affected by many factors such as society and culture, becoming the best carrier of reflecting era.
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